Three Days on Smøla and Veiholmen

On Smøla, you can slow down with sauna sessions and sunsets, good food and a stay in a distinctive fishing village. In late summer and autumn, the light turns softer, and you can experience the island with a particular kind of calm, salty sea air and quiet sunsets. September and October can bring anything from storms and waves crashing against the windows to kayaking on mirror-still water. Each has its own charm.

This is the season for experiencing the coast at its most authentic. Smøla is large enough to spend several days on, yet small enough to explore from a single base.

We recommend around three days on Smøla to experience plenty of what the island has to offer, while still having time to find your calm and take a break from an otherwise hectic everyday life.

Three days on Smøla:

Day 1: The Historic Fishing Village of Veiholmen

The ferry crossing to Smøla is an experience in itself. From the ferry quay, you can take one of Norway's rawest drives out to the fishing village of Veiholmen. The smell of salt and seaweed hits you the moment you open the car door.

Veiholmen was once the largest fishing village south of Lofoten. Thousands of fishermen came here every season.

If you want to stay right out at the edge of the open sea, you can check in at Olsens Pensjonat or book your stay at the hotel Veiholmen Brygge, both centrally located in the fishing village.

Once you've checked in, you can take 'småttan', a walk known to locals, between the white and red timber houses. Join a guided village walk and hear the stories behind houses built from old shipwrecks.

Enjoy a good dinner with views out over the coast at Veiholmen Brygge's glass-fronted restaurant, or taste what the sea has to offer at Restaurant OlsenNaustet – an old boathouse with beams dating from the 1700s. End the day with a sunset from the smooth coastal rocks or the restaurant windows, depending on the weather.

Day 2: Kayaking, Culture and Skerries

In the middle of the island lies Hopen, the island's administrative centre – a natural starting point for the day's activities, whether you want to paddle among the islets, take a RIB trip or learn about the island's history and culture.

In Steinsøysundet, Smøla Kajakk offers rentals, courses and guided tours on turquoise water in the skerries. Much of the route between Hopen and Veiholmen is sheltered by islets and skerries, making it well suited to both beginners and experienced paddlers. In summer, they also open a small café with home-made cakes and coffee.

Bring your lunch out into the landscape – at Smølasenteret you'll find a grocery shop with fresh, local produce.

After lunch, head to Dyrnes, where Smøla Naturopplevelser offers sea rafting with RIB, skerries safaris and trips to the remote fishing village of Grip. If you'd rather take it easy, you can learn about one of Norway's most important export industries at Salmon Center Smøla in Hopen, or take the museum route to Norsk Myrmuseum (a peat-bog museum), Rosvoll prestegård (a former rectory) and Sanden bygdemuseum (a local heritage museum).

After a little history, we recommend heading to Villsaugården, where you can taste local produce from Smøla and Nordmøre. Here you can stay overnight in the architect-designed cabin Inga, or in Sjøbua.

As evening comes and the sun hangs low over the horizon, it can feel as though the whole island holds its breath. Sit in the sauna at Villsaugården, feel the warmth in your body, and enjoy a quiet moment with a view over the sea and the sunset.

Day 3: Eagles, History and Relaxation

Did you know that Smøla has the world's densest population of white-tailed eagles? At Straumen, you'll find Smøla Naturopplevelser, which offers an eagle-sighting guarantee and white-tailed eagle safaris led by experienced, knowledgeable guides. Here, your chances of spotting Northern Europe's largest bird of prey are high.

If you're more interested in fishing, Betten rorbuer (fishermen's cabins) offers both boat hire and accommodation for those who want to try their luck. We recommend following local advice and having solid boating experience.

Smøla carries a rich history from the Viking Age and pilgrim journeys. Traces of it appear wherever you travel on the island. At Gurisenteret (a heritage centre) on the island of Edøya, you'll find activities for the whole family telling the story of the people who lived there more than 1,000 years ago. The centre is right by the ferry quay, making it easy to visit on your way to or from the island.

Three days will give you a good introduction to Smøla, but the island changes with the seasons – a quiet autumn evening offers something quite different from a bright summer's day. Both are good reasons to come back.

Getting to Smøla

Smøla lies at the outer edge of the open sea, north of Kristiansund. Express boats run from both Trondheim and Kristiansund. When you arrive by express boat, local buses are waiting on the island to take you onward.

If you're driving, turn off the E39 just before Kristiansund and take Riksvei 680 (national road 680) towards Seivika ferry quay. From there, take the ferry across to Tømmervåg on the island of Tustna and continue to Sandvika ferry quay – followed by one more ferry crossing to Edøya. The crossing takes around 20 minutes, and the scenery along the way makes the stop worthwhile. Take the time for a classic svele – a traditional Norwegian pancake often served on the ferry.